Last updated: October 30, 2023

Lava Beds National Monument is not the prettiest place you’ll ever visit. In fact, I would be comfortable saying it’s quite ugly, however, the purpose for visiting these lava beds is not to behold beauty, but rather to explore caves (there are approximately 800!), Native American rock art sites, historic battlefields and campsites, and a high desert wilderness. The lava tubes are the main attractions, which are caves formed by lava flowing due to a volcanic eruption. Let’s learn more about Lava Beds National Monument.

Fun Facts

Established as a National Monument on 11/21/1925.
46,692 acres
It’s significant geologically because of it’s wide variety of volcanic formations, specifically the lava tubes.
There are numerous lava tubes, with 27 having marked entrances and developed trails for public access and exploration.
The Modac war of 1872-1873 took place here which involved warriors of a band led by Kintpuash (Captain Jack) used the lava beds as a defensive stronghold to resist being captured and returned to the Klamath Reservation in Oregon.
There are 13 hiking trails, all of which cross or enter the backcountry. The most popular trails are short, but lead to a number of historic sites as to several geological areas within the Lava Beds Wilderness.

I did not have a full day to dedicate to exploring the Lava Beds because I had plans to also visit the Lewis and Clark Historical Park as well as the Peter Iredale Shipwreck on my way back to Washington. With the little time I had, I chose to explore Mushpot Cave and Gillems Camp Trail.

Arrival

Upon arrival you’ll be asked if you’ve recently been caving as the remnants of cave residue on your shoes can be harmful to bats. They will give you a cave permit that allows you to explore caves for the day.

Giles Camp

The Modoc War was an armed conflict between the Native America Modoc people and the United States (US) Army.

From this command post, the US Army directed a campaign against a small group of Modoc Indians. Determined to defend their homeland, the Modocs consistently outmaneuvered the Army who at times, outnumbered them ten to one. Just over six months of surprise attacks resulted in the Modoc’s defeat.

For seven weeks in the Spring of 1873, Gillems camp served as a temporary quarters for up to 600 troops.

Mushpot Cave

Mushpot Cave is a quarter mile walk from the visitor center. This is an out and back cave that is less than a half mile. I recommend this to get a small taste of what it is to experience the inside of a lava tubes. It’s definitely a beginner cave with illuminated informational signs along the way.

I discovered I had an unknown fear of bats as I was making my way through this cave had slight panic at the thought of being attacked by bats hanging from the ceiling, although I don’t even think they were in this cave. So, I highly recommend doing this one first if you’ve never been caving to get a sense of how you’ll do in a larger more difficult cave where bats may be present. Definitely not for me. To be fair, it’s not the bats fault. I blame the scene from Jumanji where the girl is getting attacked by bats as well as the internet for floating around images of a Flying Fox